Näalbinding
By Aldiana Dragonetti
Näalbinding, also spelled nalebinding or
nalbinding, is a Scandinavian textile technique
where the fabric is constructed out of interlocking loops. Each loop is connected
to at least the loops on either side of itself making for a very sturdy,
elastic fabric that does not run. There are many variations of näalbinding,
each one described by the course of the
needle through the loops.
Most often, näalbinding was used to make
socks, mittens, etc. Because of its structure, it can be hard to tell from
knitting; often resembling a twisted knit stitch. Plied wool was the most
common material used. Different fabric weights could be achieved by changing
the size of the loops. The size of the loops can be controlled with a gauge with
a finger being the most common gauge. A thick yarn with small loops would
create a thick fabric while finer wool and
larger loops could create a fabric that was mesh-like.
Näalbinding uses a
thick needle with a big eye, often made of antler or bone, but a tapestry
needle can be substituted in a pinch. To make the needle from a deer antler
tine: Use a piece of antler that is slightly curved and about 4-8" long,
soak the antler two days in cold water, then boil it for about an hour or so.
Shape the needle with a sharp knife making sure that the needle is smooth so
that it will not catch on the fibers.
Leave a rounded tip and the butt end large enough for a hole about 1/4" in
diameter. Drill the hole, and carefully smooth the edges and inside of the
hole. Sand to finish, and buff well with
beeswax.
Examples of näalebinding:
1) A mitten from Asle Mose, Sweden, 3rd
or 4th century A.D
2) Two examples of
mittens from Iceland and Finland, Viking period
3) A panel of gold mesh worked in the
technique in a 10th century silk from Mammen, Denmark
4) A näalebinding
cap from 9-10th century Antinoe,
Egypt
5) From Novgorod, there are nine fragments
of nalebinding but only one of these is 10th
century, the rest being medieval.
6) Most medieval period examples come from
excavations in Scandinavia, Finland, Poland, and Russia and from wealthy royal
and ecclesiastical tombs scattered through
Europe.
7) A näalebinding sock was also found from late medieval
Uppsala, Sweden.
The following is an
excerpt from Elaine Hutchinson's "Construction of the Coppergate Sock"
found at http://ww.regia.org/naalbind.htm
"During excavation of the Coppergate
area of York, a find came to light from the backyard of one of the CIO wattle buildings, which clearly
indicated a Viking influence in the
textiles. This was the wool sock, worked in nalebinding, and a technique never before recorded in England.
The sock is slipper-like in style
that is it would originally cover the whole foot, probably stopping short of
the ankle. It was constructed using an unsophisticated and interesting variant
on method of nalebinding.
The work starts at
the toe, where a single loop of yarn is made and then a circular row of loops is worked into it.
For the next row, the looping is continued,
passing the needle through the center of the first row; after two loops have been completed, the needle starts to be
brought back through the next to last loop of the current row. The work is continued
in this manner, passing; the needle through
the row below and back through the last loop. The effect of this technique is to produce a heavy, almost
double-thickness fabric, of great elasticity.
New lengths of yarn
must have been joined in at intervals but, as there are no loose ends visible,
they must either have been joined by splicing or stitched into the fabric. As
the work was continued round after round, shaping was added by working extra loops
into the row below, or by missing a lower loop out. At the heel, the line of
work has been turned back on itself several times to form the heel shaping. At the
ankle it circles round a few more times until the last row, which is worked in a
smooth dark yarn, dyed with madder (dye tests on the rest of the sock were
negative). Because this technique does not unravel, no special finishing border is
needed, and it is therefore uncertain whether this last row was a decorative edge or
whether the sock continued in to a stocking with a red coloured leg."
Modern Instruction
and Pattern Books
I know of 3 modern books that deal with Näalbinding that are available from the following 2 businesses: Susan's Fiber Shop, N. 250 Hwy A, Columbus, WI 53925 (920) 623-4237 susanfiber@internetwis.com
Melinda Shoop, 4002 W
Arlington St; Yakima WA 98908; 509-972-0615; mediknit@nwinfo.net
Bibliography and Further Reading
Ligon, Linda. "The Ubiquitous
Loop" Piecework. Jan/Feb 1994. pp. 64-66.
Nordland,
O. Primitive Scandinavian Textiles in Knotless
Netting. Oslo. 1961.
Rutt, Richard. A History of Handknitting. Loveland, CO: Interweave Press. 1987.